# Warhammer Painting Recipes Personal Warhammer painting recipes, organized by faction. Each recipe records the paints used, painting steps in order, and notes for reproducing the result. # Dark Angels Painting recipes for my Dark Angels collection. Each guide will record a recipe's paints, ordered steps, and any model-specific notes. # Dark Angels Intercessor — Painting Recipe

DARK ANGELS / 3RD COMPANY   ·   AIRBRUSH + BRUSH

Green armor.
Bone details. Red weapons.
Weathered urban ground.

A squad painting recipe organized around shared colors. Within each step, complete each paint across the matching details—and across the squad—before moving on.

11 STEPS   /   3 PHASES   /   ONE SHARED-COLOR WORKFLOW

Painting inspiration

Dark Angels Intercessor by Michael Sanchez — a Space Marine in green armor firing a red bolter

Dark Angels Intercessor by Michael Sanchez · 40K Gallery

THE FINISHED MODEL / FOUR VIEWS

Dark Angels Intercessor — front view

01 / Front

Dark Angels Intercessor — left-side view

02 / Left

Dark Angels Intercessor — rear view

03 / Rear

Dark Angels Intercessor — right-side view

04 / Right

Reference model · Select a view to open the full photograph.

KEEP BESIDE THE PALETTE

Paint tray & bench reference

GREEN ARMOR

Black Green base → 1:1 Black Green / Greenskin Punch zenithal → 2:1 Greenskin Punch / Slime Green volume highlights

STEP 02STEP 08

BONE & SEALS

Pale foundations → separate 1:1 aquila and parchment mixes

STEP 05

RED DETAILS

AK 3GEN Dirty Red → AK 3GEN Carmine

STEP 06

BLACK & LEATHER

Citadel Contrast Black Legion / Army Painter John Blanche Masterclass Ironclad Grey · AK 3GEN Hull Red

STEP 04

METALLICS

Steel · brass · two golds

STEP 07

URBAN GROUND

Citadel Eshin Grey → Army Painter Fanatic Ash Grey → Pro Acryl 1-Step Graphite Grey

STEP 03STEP 11

1:1

Airbrush dilution

Prepared paint or paint mix : AK Airbrush Thinner
15–20 PSI

1:1

Generous zenithal

AK 3GEN Black Green : AK 3GEN Color Punch Greenskin Punch

2:1

Restrained volume highlights

AK 3GEN Color Punch Greenskin Punch : AK 3GEN Color Punch Slime Green
Bottled mix · also for matching cleanup

1:1

Layered brush edges

AK 3GEN Color Punch Greenskin Punch : AK 3GEN Color Punch Slime Green
Bottled mix

Sergeant variation. Paint and shade the Emperor Gold chest aquila in Step 5, before the red weapons. Batch the helmet ornament, if present, and pauldron rims with the remaining marine gold in Step 7. Keep those rims gold during the green highlights.

Mixing ratios & airbrush notes

Ratios list ingredients in the order shown. The Greenskin Punch / Slime Green mixes are already prepared in labeled bottles. Greenskin Punch is used only in paint mixtures in this recipe.

UseRecipe
Airbrushed acrylic colors1 part prepared paint or paint mix : 1 part AK Airbrush Thinner, usually 15–20 PSI
Armor recess wash1 part Pro Acryl Black Wash : 1 part Citadel Technical Lahmian Medium; optionally add 1–2 drops of flow improver to the prepared batch
Generous zenithal — airbrush1 part AK 3GEN Black Green : 1 part AK 3GEN Color Punch Greenskin Punch
Restrained volume highlights — airbrush; matching cleanup later2 parts AK 3GEN Color Punch Greenskin Punch : 1 part AK 3GEN Color Punch Slime Green (bottled mix)
Layered edge highlights — brush1 part AK 3GEN Color Punch Greenskin Punch : 1 part AK 3GEN Color Punch Slime Green
Standard aquila tint1 part Citadel Contrast Skeleton Horde : 1 part Citadel Contrast Medium or Citadel Lahmian Medium; choose one medium
Purity-seal parchment tint1 part Vallejo Mummy White : 1 part Vallejo Xpress Medium
Marine gold shade — Steps 5 & 71 part Citadel Shade Reikland Fleshshade : 1 part Citadel Technical Lahmian Medium
Red weapon-casing shade1 part Citadel Shade Carroburg Crimson : 1 part Citadel Technical Lahmian Medium
Gold street shadeUndiluted Citadel Shade Reikland Fleshshade

The default black for joints and grips is Citadel Contrast Black Legion. Army Painter John Blanche Masterclass Ironclad Grey is an optional near-black grey alternative; choose by area and whether Citadel Contrast Black Legion’s extra flow is useful.

For each airbrushed acrylic layer, first combine the paint colors at the listed ratio, then thin the prepared paint mixture 1:1 with AK Airbrush Thinner. This dilution is separate from the paint-color ratio and does not apply automatically to brush highlights. For varnishes, retain the thinning that works with the specific bottle and your airbrush; a varnish ratio has not been specified in this recipe.

Paint & equipment checklist
Brand / rangePaints & products
Colour Forge spray primersUsual start: Renegade Green, followed by Salamander Green from above.
Optional black start: Matt Black or Raven Black in place of Renegade Green; then the same Salamander Green pass.
AK 3GENBlack Green; Hull Red; Silver Grey; Dirty Red; Carmine; Rusty Brass
AK 3GEN Color PunchGreenskin Punch and Slime Green (ingredients for the listed armor mixtures); Beast Brown
AK Quick GenOld Gold
Citadel ContrastBlack Legion; Skeleton Horde; Doomfire Magenta; Flesh Tearers Red
CitadelEshin Grey; Wraithbone (optional aquila undercoat)
Citadel ShadeReikland Fleshshade; Carroburg Crimson
Citadel TechnicalLahmian Medium; Contrast Medium (alternative for thinning Skeleton Horde on the aquila)
VallejoMummy White; Xpress Medium
Citadel DryNecron Compound (optional silver highlight)
Army Painter FanaticDeep Grey; Ash Grey; Company Grey or Brigade Grey (brighter alternatives)
Army Painter John Blanche MasterclassEmperor Gold; Ironclad Grey (optional near-black alternative). Both use Fanatic formulations.
Scale75Black Metal; Heavy Metal (optional silver highlight)
Pro AcrylBlack Wash; Bold Titanium White; Gloss Varnish
Pro Acryl 1-StepGraphite Grey
AKSatin Varnish; Ultra Matte Varnish; Airbrush Thinner
Vallejo Pigment FXNatural Iron Oxide
MicroscaleMicro Set; Micro Sol
Other suppliesOptional flow improver; transfers
ToolsAirbrush; detail brushes; flat filbert brush; pigment brush; transfer-cutting tools; tweezers; soft brush or tightly wound cotton bud for positioning transfers
I · FoundationII · Shared colorsIII · Finish

PHASE I   /   STEPS 01–03

Foundation

PRIME · AIRBRUSH · URBAN BASE

01 Prime & tabletop finish

The usual starting point is a dark green primer with a lighter green highlight.

USUAL PRIMER START

Colour ForgeRenegade GreenColour ForgeSalamander Green

OPTIONAL BLACK START / EITHER PRIMER

Colour ForgeMatt BlackColour ForgeRaven Black
  1. Usual starting point: prime with Colour Forge Renegade Green.
  2. Spray Colour Forge Salamander Green from above to create a zenithal highlight, leaving lower surfaces darker.

Black-primer alternative: Use Colour Forge Matt Black or Colour Forge Raven Black instead of the initial green primer. Either works for this recipe; follow with the same overhead green primer pass.

This provides a green foundation suitable for tabletop use while the full paint job is pending. It is an intentional stopping point even though the later airbrush layers may cover much of the spray gradient.

02 Airbrush & armor lining

Build the armor volume, then define only its recesses.

PALETTE / THIS STEP

AK 3GENBlack GreenZenithal mix · 1:1Black Green :
Greenskin PunchVolume mix · bottled 2:1Greenskin Punch :
Slime GreenPro AcrylBlack WashCitadel TechnicalLahmian MediumAKAirbrush Thinner

Black Green base, zenithal & restrained volume highlights

  1. Airbrush AK 3GEN Black Green over the green armor, including the belt buckle, thinned 1:1 with AK Airbrush Thinner, usually at 15–20 PSI.
  2. Mix 1 part AK 3GEN Black Green : 1 part AK 3GEN Color Punch Greenskin Punch. Airbrush a generous zenithal highlight from above over the armor, leaving the lower areas darker.
  3. Switch to the bottled 2 parts AK 3GEN Color Punch Greenskin Punch : 1 part AK 3GEN Color Punch Slime Green mix. Add restrained but bright volume highlights on prominent points: the tops of shoulders, backpacks, heads, and any other features that call for emphasis.

For both highlight passes, thin 1 part prepared paint mixture : 1 part AK Airbrush Thinner and use the usual 15–20 PSI. Keep the final 2:1 pass focused on the prominent volumes. Reserve the bottled 1:1 Greenskin Punch / Slime Green mix for the layered brush edge highlights in Step 8.

Targeted recess wash

  1. Mix Pro Acryl Black Wash and Citadel Technical Lahmian Medium 1:1. Optionally add 1–2 drops of flow improver to the prepared batch.
  2. Apply carefully to armor panel lines and cavities to create near-black recess shadows.
  3. Do not apply this as an all-over wash. Keep it off the broad green panels so they retain their color.
  4. Skip the exposed rubber joints; they receive Citadel Contrast Black Legion or Army Painter John Blanche Masterclass Ironclad Grey, the optional alternative in Step 4.

This is the recipe's acrylic method for a freely flowing recess wash, without an enamel cleanup stage. Keep the lining neat and allow it to dry before handling the next areas.

03 Urban ground & base rim

Finish the broad ground work before the small details.

PALETTE / THIS STEP

CitadelEshin GreyArmy Painter FanaticAsh GreyPro Acryl 1-StepGraphite Grey

OPTIONAL / BRIGHTER GROUND UNDERCOAT

Army Painter FanaticCompany GreyArmy Painter FanaticBrigade Grey

Do the broad base work before the fine model details. Leave the gold street features for the shared pale-undercoat and gold batches later.

  1. Apply an even coat of Citadel Eshin Grey over the ground and stone features, including embedded metal features that will be repainted. Paint the base rim Citadel Eshin Grey in the same batch.
  2. When dry, use a flat filbert brush to skim Army Painter Fanatic Ash Grey over the upper ground surfaces. This is a controlled surface coat, heavier than a conventional drybrush, while retaining dark recesses.
  3. Apply Pro Acryl 1-Step Graphite Grey over the prepared ground. Keep this treatment on the scenic top; the rim stays Citadel Eshin Grey.

If the ground reads too dark, replace Army Painter Fanatic Ash Grey with Army Painter Fanatic Company Grey or Army Painter Fanatic Brigade Grey for a brighter undercoat. These are alternatives, not mandatory extra layers. Avoid Citadel Wraithbone for the ground undercoat; it made this treatment too bright in previous tests.

The rim should need another coat only if later painting or weathering marks it.

PHASE II   /   STEPS 04–07

Shared color batches

BLACK · BONE · RED · METALS

04 Black details & leather

Complete every matching joint, grip, strap, and pouch.

PALETTE / THIS STEP

Citadel ContrastBlack LegionArmy Painter John Blanche MasterclassIronclad GreyArmy Painter FanaticDeep GreyAK 3GENHull RedAK 3GEN Color PunchBeast Brown

Black and near-black grey

Choose by area: use Citadel Contrast Black Legion when you want pure black or its extra flow makes the detail easier to paint. Army Painter John Blanche Masterclass Ironclad Grey is an acceptable near-black grey alternative when a softer black suits the area. Choose separately for each part; batch together the areas using the same paint.

  1. Paint all exposed rubber armor joints, sword and knife handles, bolter grips, and foregrips with the chosen black or near-black grey.
  2. Where appropriate, highlight these black or near-black details with Army Painter Fanatic Deep Grey.

Keep metallic fittings separate from these black grips.

Leather

  1. Basecoat all leather straps, belts, holsters, and bags with AK 3GEN Hull Red.
  2. Add subtle highlights with AK 3GEN Color Punch Beast Brown. The restrained contrast is intentional.

05 Aquilas, seals & lenses

Complete the chest aquilas before the weapons: bone for standard marines, gold for sergeants. Batch the remaining pale foundations and tints here.

PALETTE / THIS STEP

AK 3GENSilver GreyPro AcrylBold Titanium WhiteCitadel ContrastSkeleton HordeVallejoMummy WhiteVallejoXpress MediumCitadel ContrastDoomfire MagentaCitadel ContrastFlesh Tearers Red

AQUILA MEDIUM / CHOOSE ONE

Citadel TechnicalContrast MediumCitadel TechnicalLahmian Medium

OPTIONAL / AQUILA UNDERCOAT ONLY

CitadelWraithbone

SERGEANTS ONLY / GOLD AQUILA

Army Painter John Blanche MasterclassEmperor GoldCitadel ShadeReikland FleshshadeCitadel TechnicalLahmian Medium

AK 3GEN Silver Grey — all matching foundations

Apply thin, opaque coats of AK 3GEN Silver Grey to:

  • The chest aquila on standard marines.
  • All purity-seal parchment.
  • All purity-seal wax.
  • The entire gold street feature on the base, including sides, recesses, and lettering.

Aquila alternative: Citadel Wraithbone may replace AK 3GEN Silver Grey on the aquila only. Keep AK 3GEN Silver Grey on the street features and purity seals.

Build smooth coverage carefully, especially on the aquila, so thinned paint does not spill onto the green chest.

Sergeant aquilas — finish the gold before the weapons

For sergeants only, skip the Silver Grey or Wraithbone undercoat and Skeleton Horde treatment on the chest aquila. Complete its gold here, before painting the weapon casings in Step 6.

  1. Basecoat the chest aquila with Army Painter John Blanche Masterclass Emperor Gold. Work carefully around any weapon crossing the chest, then let the gold dry.
  2. Shade lightly with 1 part Citadel Shade Reikland Fleshshade : 1 part Citadel Technical Lahmian Medium. Avoid pooling; this wash strongly tints the gold. Let the shade dry before painting the nearby weapon.

Why now: Weapons often obstruct the aquila. Painting it first lets Step 6 cover any accidental gold on the casing, avoiding gold marks on finished red weapons. The sergeant’s helmet ornament and pauldron rims stay in the Step 7 gold batch.

White eye foundations

Paint the eye lenses neatly with Pro Acryl Bold Titanium White and let them dry.

Tint the prepared details

  1. Standard aquila: Mix 1 part Citadel Contrast Skeleton Horde : 1 part Citadel Contrast Medium or Citadel Lahmian Medium, choosing either medium. Apply over the dry pale undercoat to shade and tint the aquila to the bone tone that complements the Deathwing scheme.
  2. Purity-seal parchment: Mix 1 part Vallejo Mummy White : 1 part Vallejo Xpress Medium. Apply over the dry AK 3GEN Silver Grey undercoat on all parchment.
  3. Apply Citadel Contrast Doomfire Magenta to the seal wax.
  4. Apply Citadel Contrast Flesh Tearers Red over the dry white lenses.
  5. Leave the AK 3GEN Silver Grey street features ready for AK Quick Gen Old Gold in Step 7.

06 Red casings & company knees

Use one red batch for the weapons and 3rd Company markings.

PALETTE / THIS STEP

AK 3GENDirty RedAK 3GENCarmineCitadel ShadeCarroburg CrimsonCitadel TechnicalLahmian Medium
  1. Basecoat the weapon casings and 3rd Company marking on the model's left kneepad with AK 3GEN Dirty Red.
  2. Highlight both with AK 3GEN Carmine. The weapon highlights can be broad and rough; keep the knee marking neatly defined.
  3. Shade the weapon casings with a 1:1 mix of Citadel Shade Carroburg Crimson and Citadel Technical Lahmian Medium for a light, uniform result.

The knee uses the same AK 3GEN Dirty Red and AK 3GEN Carmine color pairing. The casing wash is not a required part of the knee recipe.

Paint the larger red casings before their metallic fittings to minimize later metal touch-ups. For company-marking placement, consult the supplied Dark Angels marking reference. Left and right refer to the model's own sides.

07 Steel, brass & gold

Paint matching metals across the marine and scenic base.

PALETTE / THIS STEP

Scale75Black MetalAK 3GENRusty BrassArmy Painter John Blanche MasterclassEmperor GoldAK Quick GenOld GoldCitadel ShadeReikland FleshshadeCitadel TechnicalLahmian Medium

OPTIONAL / SILVER HIGHLIGHTS & WEAR

Scale75Heavy MetalCitadel DryNecron Compound

Scale75 Black Metal

Apply an even coat of Scale75 Black Metal to all appropriate exposed steel details:

  • Gun barrels and metallic weapon hardware.
  • Metal handles and fittings separate from the black or near-black grips painted in Step 4.
  • Grenades and similar metal details.
  • Backpack lower vents and upper exhausts: paint the vent interiors and exposed metal around the rounded exhaust housings.
  • Helmet tubes entering the mask and accessible ports at the rear of the helmet.

Keep the belt buckle green with the armor. Keep the upper armor shell of each backpack exhaust green. Use the rear and side reference photos to identify this boundary.

Scale75 Black Metal normally needs no additional shade in this recipe. For brighter highlights or wear marks, use Scale75 Heavy Metal or Citadel Dry Necron Compound over the basecoat.

Blades and chainsword teeth: Default to Scale75 Black Metal. Add a brighter metal over that basecoat only where highlights or wear patterns call for it, using Scale75 Heavy Metal or Citadel Dry Necron Compound.

AK 3GEN Rusty Brass

Paint bullet shells, magazines, and other projectile ammunition with AK 3GEN Rusty Brass.

Army Painter John Blanche Masterclass Emperor Gold — remaining marine gold

Use Army Painter John Blanche Masterclass Emperor Gold on:

  • Knife and sword pommels and guards.
  • Imperial symbols on weapons.
  • Appropriate relics on the belt.
  • Any other marine ornaments intended to be gold.

For sergeants only, add the helmet ornament or marking, if present, and pauldron rims to this batch. The chest aquila was already painted and shaded in Step 5; leave it finished.

Army Painter John Blanche Masterclass Emperor Gold is the preferred gold for this recipe, even if it appears reddish brown in the bottle.

AK Quick Gen Old Gold — scenic-base details

Apply AK Quick Gen Old Gold over the AK 3GEN Silver Grey street features prepared in Step 5. Cover the full feature and let it dry.

Citadel Shade Reikland Fleshshade — two strengths in one session

  1. Use undiluted Citadel Shade Reikland Fleshshade on the base's AK Quick Gen Old Gold street features. Deep recess shadows help the gold lettering stand out.
  2. Prepare a separate 1:1 mix of Citadel Shade Reikland Fleshshade and Citadel Technical Lahmian Medium and apply it lightly to the remaining Army Painter John Blanche Masterclass Emperor Gold details on the marine. Avoid heavy pooling; this wash strongly tints the gold.

Keep the two strengths distinct: full-strength shade for the street, diluted shade for the marine.

PHASE III   /   STEPS 08–11

Highlights, markings & finish

ARMOR EDGES · TRANSFERS · VARNISH · WEATHERING

08 Armor cleanup & edge highlights

Repair stray marks, then bring attention to the head and shoulders.

PALETTE / THIS STEP

AK 3GENBlack GreenMatching cleanup · bottled 2:1Greenskin Punch :
Slime GreenBrush edges · bottled 1:1Greenskin Punch :
Slime Green

Repair stray marks

  1. Correct mistakes in dark, lower armor areas with AK 3GEN Black Green.
  2. Use the bottled 2 parts AK 3GEN Color Punch Greenskin Punch : 1 part AK 3GEN Color Punch Slime Green mix where it matches a brighter area. Choose Black Green or the 2:1 mix according to the blemish’s position and surrounding color.

This cleanup is deliberately after the base and detail painting. The belt buckle follows the green armor treatment for cleanup and any edge highlights.

Layered brush edge highlights — bottled 1:1 mix

Use the bottled 1 part AK 3GEN Color Punch Greenskin Punch : 1 part AK 3GEN Color Punch Slime Green mix for the layered brush edge highlights. Build the highlights in controlled layers along upward-facing green armor edges. Keep the lines narrow, crisp, and strong enough to read on the tabletop, with emphasis toward the head and shoulders.

Include the green pauldron rims, upper helmet rim, tops of the helmet's ear details, and other upward-facing edges visible in the reference photos.

Sergeant exception: Keep gold pauldron rims gold; do not line them with the green mix.

09 Waterslide transfers

Apply the symbol, layer the number, and seal the settled decals.

PALETTE / THIS STEP

Pro AcrylGloss VarnishMicroscaleMicro SetMicroscaleMicro Sol

Apply the chapter or Battleline transfer first, then layer the squad number where needed. The timing windows below are practical checkpoints; surface readiness determines when to continue.

Prepare with Pro Acryl Gloss Varnish

  1. Make sure the paint is dry and thoroughly mix the Pro Acryl Gloss Varnish.
  2. Apply one thin, smooth coat over the complete shoulder face, inside the trim. Airbrushing is convenient for a squad; a brush works for an individual shoulder.
  3. Let the gloss dry until the surface is stable and no longer tacky before adding decal solutions. Check the surface rather than relying only on elapsed time.

Use Pro Acryl Gloss Varnish for both clear coats in this transfer stage. Apply the all-over AK Satin Varnish in Step 10 and the final AK Ultra Matte Varnish in Step 11.

Place the Battleline or chapter transfer

  1. Cut the transfer out and wet its backing until it slides freely. About 10 seconds of soaking is a starting point, not a reason to force it off the paper.
  2. Apply a small amount of Microscale Micro Set, slide the transfer into place, and align it carefully.
  3. Gently wick away excess liquid. While positioning, a damp soft brush or tightly wound cotton bud can help settle it.
  4. Wait about 5–10 minutes, until the transfer is no longer floating or easily shifting.

Conform the first transfer

  1. Apply one light treatment of Microscale Micro Sol, using as few brush strokes as possible.
  2. Leave it alone while it softens. Do not press, reposition, or touch a softened or wrinkled transfer.
  3. Check after 30–60 minutes. Continue only when the transfer is dry, flat, and no longer soft. Repeat Microscale Micro Sol only where needed, allowing each application to dry.

Layer the squad number

For a squad number placed over the Battleline symbol:

  1. Apply a small amount of Microscale Micro Set and place the number directly over the settled lower transfer. No intermediate gloss coat is needed in this workflow.
  2. Position and wick gently without scrubbing the lower transfer.
  3. Wait about 5–10 minutes, until the number stops floating.
  4. Use Microscale Micro Sol only if needed to conform the number. Leave it untouched, and inspect after 30–60 minutes. Extend the wait if either transfer remains wet or soft.

Dry, clean if needed, and seal

  1. After the final decal solution, give the transfers a few hours before sealing when practical; 3–4 hours is a same-day checkpoint, not a guaranteed dry time. They must be completely dry, settled, and no longer soft.
  2. If visible adhesive or solution residue remains, gently remove it with a soft brush barely dampened with clean water. Do not rub across the transfers. Let the area dry completely; 30–60 minutes is a useful checkpoint after light cleaning. Skip this step if there is no residue.
  3. Apply one thin, continuous coat of Pro Acryl Gloss Varnish over the complete shoulder face to seal the transfers and even the surface.
  4. Let the sealing gloss dry until the surface is stable and no longer tacky before proceeding to Step 10.

Use small amounts of Microscale Micro Set and Microscale Micro Sol rather than saturating the shoulder. Favor natural drying; if using a hairdryer or air blower, keep it low and gentle and do not let airflow disturb a softened transfer.

The Microscale Micro Sol instructions likewise emphasize leaving the softened decal undisturbed until dry.

10 Protective satin

Check the rim and protect the painted finish before pigments.

PALETTE / THIS STEP

CitadelEshin GreyAKSatin Varnish
  1. Inspect the base rim. Touch up Citadel Eshin Grey only if needed; the initial even rim coat was completed with the ground in Step 3.
  2. Once the paint, transfers, and sealing gloss are dry enough for the next coat, apply an all-over coat of AK Satin Varnish. This is the protective layer beneath the pigment weathering.
  3. Allow the satin to dry before applying pigments. About 10–20 minutes is this recipe's observed working pause in a humidity-controlled basement, with relative humidity kept below roughly 45–50%. Check that the surface is dry and no longer tacky before continuing. This is a working interval, not a claim of full cure.

11 Battle dust & final matte

Tie the feet into the base and finish with a controlled matte coat.

PALETTE / THIS STEP

Vallejo Pigment FXNatural Iron OxideAKUltra Matte Varnish
  1. Apply Vallejo Pigment FX Natural Iron Oxide to selected base areas to suggest dark battle dust, ash, and scorched debris.
  2. Add smaller amounts to the feet and shins to tie the marine into the base.
  3. Use gentle airbrush airflow to remove excess pigment until the armor color and weathering are balanced.
  4. Thoroughly mix AK Ultra Matte Varnish and apply light, thin passes. Aim for an evenly wetted film: lightly wet, without soaking the model or leaving a dry, dusty spray.

    Preserve the pigment texture: use a light final application to secure the pigments and establish the matte finish. Avoid saturating the pigment or building a heavy varnish layer over it.

    Include the metallic areas: a subdued metal finish is intentional for these non-character models. Keep metallic painting and highlights in the shared paint batches before varnishing.

  5. Let the finish dry, then leave the model until the next day—about 24 hours before gaming or transport in this workflow.

Ready for the table.

Leave the finished model until the next day—about 24 hours before gaming or transport.

Batch map

Use this to group repeated colors across the model and squad. Follow the numbered steps for the full painting sequence.

Shared-color checklist
  • Citadel Eshin Grey: scenic base and rim together; conditional rim touch-up only.
  • Citadel Contrast Black Legion or Army Painter John Blanche Masterclass Ironclad Grey / Army Painter Fanatic Deep Grey: batch rubber joints and grips by the paint chosen for each area, then highlight where appropriate.
  • AK 3GEN Hull Red / AK 3GEN Color Punch Beast Brown: all leather together.
  • AK 3GEN Silver Grey: standard aquila, parchment, wax, and street foundations together.
  • Citadel Contrast Skeleton Horde: standard aquilas together, thinned 1:1 with Citadel Contrast Medium or Citadel Lahmian Medium. Choose one medium.
  • Vallejo Mummy White: all purity-seal parchment together, thinned 1:1 with Vallejo Xpress Medium over the Silver Grey undercoat.
  • AK 3GEN Dirty Red / AK 3GEN Carmine: weapon casings and 3rd Company knees together.
  • Scale75 Black Metal: matching weapon, armor, backpack, and helmet hardware, including blades and chainsword teeth, together. Add brighter metal over the basecoat only where highlights or wear patterns call for it.
  • Army Painter John Blanche Masterclass Emperor Gold: sergeant chest aquilas first in Step 5, before the red weapons; all remaining marine gold, including sergeant helmet ornaments and pauldron rims, in Step 7.
  • Citadel Shade Reikland Fleshshade: shade sergeant aquilas in Step 5 with the 1:1 Lahmian Medium mix. In Step 7, use that same ratio on the remaining marine gold and undiluted shade on the street gold. Keep the two strengths separate.
  • Armor colors: include the belt buckle with the green armor. Airbrush Black Green across the squad, then the generous 1:1 Black Green / Greenskin Punch zenithal, then restrained 2:1 Greenskin Punch / Slime Green volume highlights. Later, batch necessary cleanup with Black Green or the matching 2:1 mix, followed by layered brush edges using the bottled 1:1 Greenskin Punch / Slime Green mix.
# Chaos Space Marines Painting recipes for my Chaos Space Marines collection. Each guide will record a recipe's paints, ordered steps, and any model-specific notes. # Chaos Space Marines — Painting Recipes # Recipe overview **Status:** Framework ready — awaiting recipe details. **Recipe name:** To be supplied. **Models / scheme:** To be supplied. ## Paints and materials To be added from the supplied recipe. ## Step-by-step instructions The painting steps will be added here in order, with paint names, mix ratios, application techniques, and drying times where provided. ## Notes and variations Additional notes and model-specific variations will be recorded here as needed.